A solid eighteen carat gold Cartier men's dress watch on a Cartier alligator signed band, with Tang buckle. This is an elegant and classic wristwatch, in superb unpolished condition. The unfussy round case, with clean drop lugs and a slightly sunken crown are well proportioned offering a watch that is perfect for work, or functions that require a jacket.
The snap case back has a variety of stamped numbers. Some are the full Cartier stamped reference numbers, and model number. Others were most likely individual numbers applied by the Swiss watch maker. There are also double owl stamps and swan stamp, with "AB".
The swan, or cygne, mark comes up quite often on Swiss watches. It is a mark which is rather difficult to pin down. It was used for items that were not hallmarked in France in the normal way and so was principally used on imported items, such as Swiss watches imported into France. Which makes sense in this case, as the watch was made in Switzerland and then imported into France for sale.
The owl, in this case is stamped twice, is also a French import mark, used on gold. The symbol on the owl's chest identifies at which French assay office the item was tested and marked. The swan shows that the item meets the minimum French legal standard for gold, and that it is therefore legal to describe it as a gold item. A nice addition to the splendid back of this watch.
Along with this series of import marks is a curious, but appealing coat of arms. A knight's helmet with fleur de lis sits atop two shields. The significance, or origins of this have failed to be discovered. They appear to have been stamped into the case upon manufacturing, and not a later addition. This would have been a design directive from Cartier.
Inside the case is the classic Swiss Helvetia mark, "0,750 18k" and the hammer head makers mark of "115". This was for makers; Manufacture Favre & Perret SA. This company is regarded as one of the very last surviving, high quality, independent watch and case makers. They would go on to be acquired by the Swatch group in 1999. This company made cases for many of the finest watch companies; Movado, Zenith to name a couple, since their formation in 1865. This would explain the quality case this watch finds itself in.
The watch is powered by a caliber E2, seventeen jewel, two adjustment mechanical manual wound movement, made by Bueche Girod. These two brands had a long and successful relationship. There are many examples of dual signed watches from these two luxury brands. They manufactured a number of men's, but predominantly lady's watches for Cartier.
The handsome cross hair dial has a reverse 'pie-pan' design to it, with a 'naturalistic' textured solid gold chapter ring with gold applied stick hour markers, and double hour marker at the twelve o'clock position. The dial is signed with the script Cartier signature that is found on most watches, and "Swiss Made" at the six o'clock position, and is all original and not re-finished. There is no luminous material on the watch, as is common on dress watches.
The watch is presented in excellent original and untouched condition throughout. Rarely worn, it would appear. This is a very rare model, with no other examples like it being found. The watch comes with a Foundwell one year warranty.
